Analysis of wave observations and wave transformations in Abu-qir, Egypt.
Wave observations taken during 1986 in Abu-Qir Bay were statistically analyzed to calculate the wave parameters describing the sea state (significant wave height, wave period and predominant direction). On both sides of Rosetta promontory, the transformed wave parameters at break line (breaker height, breaker depth and crest angle) were calculated in terms of the predominant values of the significant wave height, period and direction using ACES software package. Breaker type and closure depth along Rosetta coast were also predicted. Generally, the wave effect in the bay was varying in intensity and direction in accordance with the prevailing wind. The average annual wave height and period are about 0.94 m and 6.5 s, respectively. Throughout the year, the predominant waves come from the NW direction (42%). Waves with significant height of about 4 m and period of about 11 s were infrequently observed during winter and summer gales. The wave characteristics at breaker line on both sides of Rosetta promontory are approximately similar. Generally, most of the waves along Rosetta coast break at about 1.7 m depth with a breaker height of about 1.5 m. The surf similarity parameter (0) was found to be equal 0.16, predicting that the spilling breaker predominates along Rosetta beaches. The closure depth (dc) associated with the extreme wave conditions along Rosetta coast during 1986 was estimated to be equal 9.3 m, predicting a seaward limit of littoral transport to lie at about 0.5 km from the shoreline.
| Main Authors: | , , |
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| Format: | Journal Contribution biblioteca |
| Language: | English |
| Published: |
National Institute of Oceanography and Fisheries (NIOF)
2006
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| Subjects: | Physical studies, Wave analysis, |
| Online Access: | http://hdl.handle.net/1834/1449 |
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